Shoe Glossary
	BREAST: The forward facing part of the heel, under the arch of the sole COUNTER: A stiff piece of material at the heel of a shoe positioned between the lining and upper that helps maintain the shape of the shoe. The counter helps strengthen the rear of the shoe. FEATHER: The part of the shoe where the upper’s edge meets the sole HEEL: The heel is the part of the sole that raises the rear of the shoe in relation to the front. The heel seat is the top of the heel that touches the upper, this is typically shaped to match the form of the upper. The part of the heel that comes in contact with the ground is known as the top piece. INSOLE: A layer of material that sits inside the shoe that creates a layer between the sole and the wearer’s foot. The insole adds comfort for the wearer, while hiding the join between the upper. LININGS: Most shoes include a lining on the inside of the shoe, around the vamp and quarter. These linings improve comfort, and can help increase the lifespan of the shoe. OUTSOLE: The exposed part of the sole that is in contact with the ground. As with all parts of the shoe, outsoles are made from a variety of materials. The properties the outsole need are: grip, durability, and water resistance. PUFF: a reinforcing inside the upper which gives the toe its shape and support. Similar in function to a toe cap. QUARTER: The rear and sides of the upper that covers the heel that are behind the vamp. The heel section of the quarter is often strengthened with a stiffener, which helps support the rear of the foot. Some shoe designs use a continuous piece of leather for the vamp and quarter. SEAT: Where the heel of the foot sits in the shoe. It normally matches the shape of the heel for comfort and support. SHANK: A piece of metal inserted between the sole and the insole lying against the arch of the foot. SOLE: The entire part of the shoe that sits below the wearer’s foot. As opposed to the upper. The upper and sole make up the whole of the shoe. THROAT: The front of the vamp next to the toe cap. For shoes where the vamp and quarter panels are one piece the throat is at the eye-stay. TOE CAP: Shoes may have a toe cap in the front upper of the shoe. Toe caps can take various forms, but the distinct types are: complete replacements for the front upper of the shoe; stitched over toecaps that add an extra layer to the upper; solid toe caps for protection, such as steel toe caps. Stitch over toe caps may be decorative in nature. Toe caps help add strength to the upper front of the shoe, an area that receives a lot of stress and wear from use. TOP PIECE: The part of the heel that comes in contact with the ground. Made of a durable material that helps maintain friction with the ground. TOPLINE: The top edge of the upper. UPPER: The entire part of the shoe that covers the foot. VAMP: The section of upper that covers the front of the foot as far back as the join to the quarter. WAIST: The arch and in-step of the foot. WELT: A strip of material that joins the upper to the sole. Traditional Style Names DERBY – A derby shoe has open laces with four or more eyelets, it normally has a plain vamp. GIBSON – Similar to the Derby but with eyelets higher up the tongue and between one and three eyelets, most of Oliver Sweeney shoes are based on the Gibson format. OXFORD – Lace up shoe with a closed lacing, resembles a V sign for a more controlled fit, usually has stitching to outline the toe cap. BROGUE – Or wingtip (USA), is normally a symmetrical design of punching and gimping on the vamp of the shoe, considered the most traditional of English styles. SEMI BROGUE – Same as the brogue but with the design restricted to the top cap. MONK – A classic shoe with a side buckle fastened across the tongue. LOAFER – A formal styled slip on shoe. PENNY LOAFER – A traditional slip on with a strip of leather covering the top of the tongue with a ‘Penny slot’ design in the centre. MOCCASIN – A more casual styled shoe, normally a slip on, it is made with a complete bag of leather (like a glove) allowing more give in the leather, generally considered the most comfortable style of shoe, invented by the American Indians. The Story The Man Behind The Brand Oliver Sweeney Specials Shoe Construction Movie Shoe Glossary